This is Jean-François Maestracci's place. You eat vegetables from his own garden, drink the Ribella beer he brews on site, and there's often live music at night. My first reflex when friends turn up.
Route de l'Église, 20253 Patrimonio
The area
The Nebbio, Saint-Florent and Cap Corse
The house is in Barbaggio, in northern Corsica, at the bottom of the village, level with Patrimonio. From here the nearest beach is five minutes away, Saint-Florent under ten, Bastia twenty-five. Here is what surrounds it, written by someone who lives here all year.
- Olzo beach5 min
- Patrimonio, the village and the cellars5 min
- Saint-Florent and its harbourunder 10 min
- Nonza and the black beach20 min
- Bastia, everything you need25 min
- Bastia-Poretta airport35 min
The Nebbio
Where the house is
The Nebbio is the basin that runs down from the mountain to the gulf of Saint-Florent. Barbaggio and Patrimonio sit on its eastern side, the side with the vines. The house is in lower Barbaggio, level with Patrimonio, in a wood of holm oaks, with nothing overlooking it. This is wine country and maquis, not a resort area. In the evening you hear nothing.
Patrimonio
The oldest appellation in Corsica, five minutes away
Patrimonio is the island’s oldest appellation, and the most sought after. Nielluccio for the reds, vermentinu for the whites, muscat for the end of the meal. Antoine Arena, Orenga de Gaffory, Yves Leccia: the cellars are less than five minutes from the house, and most of the time you can walk in without an appointment. Go early in the day, the rare cuvées sell out fast.
Saint-Florent
The harbour, the market, and the boats to the Agriates
Less than ten minutes by car. This is where you shop at the morning market, where you have dinner on the harbour, and where you take the boat to Saleccia and Lotu. The Genoese citadel looks down over the bay. In July and August come early: the car park fills up before noon.
The beaches
The first is five minutes away, the best ones need a boat
Olzo is the closest: five minutes, sand, pines, and shade at the end of the day. Then come Tettola, la Roya and Farinole, all under a quarter of an hour. Saleccia and Lotu, in the Agriates desert, are reached by boat from Saint-Florent harbour, a crossing of about thirty minutes. There is also a track, but it needs a genuine four-wheel drive.
Cap Corse
The west coast road, and Nonza
From the house the Cap road heads due north. Nonza and its black pebble beach are twenty minutes away, Centuri and its langoustines a little over an hour. Do it as a day trip, leave early, stop in the marinas. Da Noi, clinging to the rock near the Nonza tower, has the finest terrace on the coast and very few tables.
Bastia
Everything you need, twenty-five minutes away
Twenty-five minutes over the Teghime pass, with a view of both seas on the way. The old harbour, place Saint-Nicolas, supermarkets, the late-night pharmacy, the hospital. Bastia-Poretta airport is thirty-five minutes from the house.
The map
My addresses, placed on a map
Thirty-one places I actually go to: restaurants, wineries, beaches, markets, shops. Filter by category, click a point to open its card.
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The table I keep for special occasions. César and Fanny cooked in some lovely hotels before setting their terrace right on the sand, facing the gulf. Mediterranean cooking, refined and bright.
Plage de la Roya, 20217 Saint-Florent
The best Neapolitan pizza around, don't be put off by the petrol station next door. Neapolitan oven, dough made fresh daily, a family business across three generations.
20217 Saint-Florent
A newer spot on the harbour quay, for a drink facing the boats. Good buzz in the evening.
Quai du port de plaisance, 20217 Saint-Florent
The most beautiful table on the coast, to my mind. Clinging to the rock near the tower, the terrace drops over the bay all the way to Saint-Florent. Matteu front of house, Stefana in the kitchen, their own garden, fish from Centuri, lamb from the neighbour.
Poghjulellu, 20217 Nonza
The lively spot in Nonza. Terrace above the black pebble beach, perfect for an evening with a group.
Nonza, 20217
Right in the heart of the village, a shaded terrace and careful cooking.
Village centre, Nonza, 20217
The only beach shack at Lotu, five minutes' walk from the sand. Grills, salads and cold drinks under the trees.
Coastal path, 20246 Santo-Pietro-di-Tenda
The farm-to-table restaurant of the Providenza art residency, between Pieve and Rapale. Wood-fired cooking, almost everything from the garden, and a menu that changes every week with the chefs in residence. Dinners overlooking the Conca d’Oro.
Ghjuncheto, Pieve
On the west coast of the Cap, at Marine d'Albo. A lovely terrace above the pebble beach, careful cooking. Perfect for lunch by the water, after a morning in Nonza.
Marine d'Albo, 20217 Ogliastro
On the Saint-Florent harbour, a smarter fish table, beautifully plated, indoors or on the terrace facing the boats. For a refined dinner by the water.
25 Marinaccio, 20217 Saint-Florent
A family institution since 1961, in an 1860 American's house. Centuri is France's leading langoustine fishing port, so order Mamie Josette's langoustine pasta, on the terrace above the harbour.
Centuri harbour, 20238
A serious Patrimonio winery set in 65 hectares of vines. You taste glass in hand, surrounded by contemporary art. Ask for the Gouverneurs, the Scala Santa, and the Impassitu, their sweet wine.
Lieu-dit Morta Majo, 20253 Patrimonio
Jean-Luc Santini's place, a winemaker like his father and grandfather before him. On the village square, across from the post office, he pours his red and serves pizzas. The real Corsican apéritif, no fuss.
Village square, 20253 Patrimonio
The most legendary cellar in Patrimonio. The Arena family makes natural wines sought after worldwide. Carco, Grotte di Sole, Hauts de Carco… Go early, the cuvées sell out fast.
Morta Maio, 20253 Patrimonio
A historic name of the appellation, organic for years. Lovely Patrimonio wines and a celebrated muscat, in a simple, welcoming spirit.
20253 Patrimonio
Jean-François's bread, the Libertalia man, baked in a wood-fired oven. Simply one of the best around. You pick it up at the Brasserie Ribella, on the road to Saint-Florent.
Brasserie Ribella, Route de Saint-Florent, 20253 Patrimonio
Ève and Simon are where we buy our fish. Caught in the gulf and around Cap Corse, fresh in every day. For cooking at home, there's nothing better.
Route Entrée Nord, 20217 Saint-Florent
The deli for Corsican products: charcuterie, cheeses, honeys, jams, island wines. Perfect for taking something home or filling the table.
Place Doria, 20217 Saint-Florent
An organic farm in Oletta, across from the Leclerc. You buy the day's vegetables, fruit, eggs and olive oil, whatever's been picked. You can also have lunch under the olive trees, simple food made from what comes out of the ground. Call ahead.
Route de San Griolo, Oletta
A few minutes from the house, a sandy beach with a summer beach bar. One of the finest sunsets around, so come for an evening drink.
Free access, parking on site.
An easy, family beach at Marine de Farinole, a short drive from the house. Shallow water ideal for children, water sports in summer, and lovely sunsets at the end of the day.
Free access, parking on site.
When I want to rent a boat, this is where I go. Recent boats, a proper briefing, good route tips, with or without a licence, with or without a skipper. Lotu and Saleccia are 15 to 30 minutes away.
By the Aliso river, opposite the gendarmerie, 20217 Saint-Florent
The Saint-Florent catamaran, two moods. By day, a gentle cruise through the gulf and the Agriates with swim stops and food on board. By night, a festive sunset apéro with a DJ or live band. If you want a party at sea, this is it.
Saint-Florent harbour, 20217
Small-group boat trips on a 12-seat RIB. Secret coves of the gulf, Saleccia and Lotu beaches, paddle and snorkelling provided, and an apéro with your feet in the water. Great for families.
Résidence des Arcades, 20217 Saint-Florent
Over a kilometre of white sand, clear turquoise water, maquis all around. No road leads there, and that's the point. One of the most beautiful beaches I know.
Le Popeye shuttle from Saint-Florent (30 min) or boat (Dominique Plaisance, 15 min).
A kilometre of white sand, astonishingly pure water, century-old pines and free-roaming cows. No road, no cars. To me, the most beautiful beach in Corsica.
Le Popeye shuttle, or a 45 min walk from Lotu.
Julien is a ceramicist, trained in Burgundy and then in Japan. His studio has been here since 1983 and his pieces dress some beautiful tables. Stop by the showroom, even just to look.
Campo d'Elge, 20253 Patrimonio
Christelle's shop, near the harbour. Lovely things for the home and for yourself, with a seaside feel. I always find a gift here.
20217 Saint-Florent
Bastien's place is a mix of antiques, souvenirs and gifts that's a joy to rummage through. You come in to browse and rarely leave empty-handed.
20217 Saint-Florent
More than a hundred and forty neoclassical mansions built in the 19th century by Cap Corse men who came home wealthy from the Americas. These palazzi look down over the villages, facing the sea. Look for them in Barrettali, Pino, Canari, Centuri, Luri, Rogliano.
capcorse-tourisme.corsica
Questions about the area
Where exactly is the house?
In lower Barbaggio, in northern Corsica, level with Patrimonio, in the Nebbio. It is a very quiet spot, with nothing overlooking it, five minutes from the first beaches.
How far is Saint-Florent?
Under 10 minutes by car.
Which beach is closest?
Olzo beach, five minutes by car. Then come Tettola, la Roya and Farinole, all under a quarter of an hour away.
How long from Bastia airport?
30 kilometres, about 35 minutes of driving. Bastia itself, with everything you need, is 25 minutes away.
Do I need a car?
Yes. The house is out in the country and there is no public transport. Parking is private and free, on site.
How do I get to Saleccia and Lotu beaches?
By boat from Saint-Florent harbour. The crossing takes about thirty minutes. You can also take the Agriates track, but it needs a genuine four-wheel drive.