This is Jean-François Maestracci's place. You eat vegetables from his own garden, drink the Ribella beer he brews on site, and there's often live music at night. My first reflex when friends turn up.
Route de l'Église, 20253 Patrimonio
The journal
Northern Corsica, by someone who lives there
The restaurants, the beaches, the wineries, the markets. I only write about what I actually know, and every address on the map is somewhere I go.
31 mapped addresses, filterable by category. Click a point to open its card.
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The table I keep for special occasions. César and Fanny cooked in some lovely hotels before setting their terrace right on the sand, facing the gulf. Mediterranean cooking, refined and bright.
Plage de la Roya, 20217 Saint-Florent
The best Neapolitan pizza around, don't be put off by the petrol station next door. Neapolitan oven, dough made fresh daily, a family business across three generations.
20217 Saint-Florent
A newer spot on the harbour quay, for a drink facing the boats. Good buzz in the evening.
Quai du port de plaisance, 20217 Saint-Florent
The most beautiful table on the coast, to my mind. Clinging to the rock near the tower, the terrace drops over the bay all the way to Saint-Florent. Matteu front of house, Stefana in the kitchen, their own garden, fish from Centuri, lamb from the neighbour.
Poghjulellu, 20217 Nonza
The lively spot in Nonza. Terrace above the black pebble beach, perfect for an evening with a group.
Nonza, 20217
Right in the heart of the village, a shaded terrace and careful cooking.
Village centre, Nonza, 20217
The only beach shack at Lotu, five minutes' walk from the sand. Grills, salads and cold drinks under the trees.
Coastal path, 20246 Santo-Pietro-di-Tenda
The farm-to-table restaurant of the Providenza art residency, between Pieve and Rapale. Wood-fired cooking, almost everything from the garden, and a menu that changes every week with the chefs in residence. Dinners overlooking the Conca d’Oro.
Ghjuncheto, Pieve
On the west coast of the Cap, at Marine d'Albo. A lovely terrace above the pebble beach, careful cooking. Perfect for lunch by the water, after a morning in Nonza.
Marine d'Albo, 20217 Ogliastro
On the Saint-Florent harbour, a smarter fish table, beautifully plated, indoors or on the terrace facing the boats. For a refined dinner by the water.
25 Marinaccio, 20217 Saint-Florent
A family institution since 1961, in an 1860 American's house. Centuri is France's leading langoustine fishing port, so order Mamie Josette's langoustine pasta, on the terrace above the harbour.
Centuri harbour, 20238
A serious Patrimonio winery set in 65 hectares of vines. You taste glass in hand, surrounded by contemporary art. Ask for the Gouverneurs, the Scala Santa, and the Impassitu, their sweet wine.
Lieu-dit Morta Majo, 20253 Patrimonio
Jean-Luc Santini's place, a winemaker like his father and grandfather before him. On the village square, across from the post office, he pours his red and serves pizzas. The real Corsican apéritif, no fuss.
Village square, 20253 Patrimonio
The most legendary cellar in Patrimonio. The Arena family makes natural wines sought after worldwide. Carco, Grotte di Sole, Hauts de Carco… Go early, the cuvées sell out fast.
Morta Maio, 20253 Patrimonio
A historic name of the appellation, organic for years. Lovely Patrimonio wines and a celebrated muscat, in a simple, welcoming spirit.
20253 Patrimonio
Jean-François's bread, the Libertalia man, baked in a wood-fired oven. Simply one of the best around. You pick it up at the Brasserie Ribella, on the road to Saint-Florent.
Brasserie Ribella, Route de Saint-Florent, 20253 Patrimonio
Ève and Simon are where we buy our fish. Caught in the gulf and around Cap Corse, fresh in every day. For cooking at home, there's nothing better.
Route Entrée Nord, 20217 Saint-Florent
The deli for Corsican products: charcuterie, cheeses, honeys, jams, island wines. Perfect for taking something home or filling the table.
Place Doria, 20217 Saint-Florent
An organic farm in Oletta, across from the Leclerc. You buy the day's vegetables, fruit, eggs and olive oil, whatever's been picked. You can also have lunch under the olive trees, simple food made from what comes out of the ground. Call ahead.
Route de San Griolo, Oletta
A few minutes from the house, a sandy beach with a summer beach bar. One of the finest sunsets around, so come for an evening drink.
Free access, parking on site.
An easy, family beach at Marine de Farinole, a short drive from the house. Shallow water ideal for children, water sports in summer, and lovely sunsets at the end of the day.
Free access, parking on site.
When I want to rent a boat, this is where I go. Recent boats, a proper briefing, good route tips, with or without a licence, with or without a skipper. Lotu and Saleccia are 15 to 30 minutes away.
By the Aliso river, opposite the gendarmerie, 20217 Saint-Florent
The Saint-Florent catamaran, two moods. By day, a gentle cruise through the gulf and the Agriates with swim stops and food on board. By night, a festive sunset apéro with a DJ or live band. If you want a party at sea, this is it.
Saint-Florent harbour, 20217
Small-group boat trips on a 12-seat RIB. Secret coves of the gulf, Saleccia and Lotu beaches, paddle and snorkelling provided, and an apéro with your feet in the water. Great for families.
Résidence des Arcades, 20217 Saint-Florent
Over a kilometre of white sand, clear turquoise water, maquis all around. No road leads there, and that's the point. One of the most beautiful beaches I know.
Le Popeye shuttle from Saint-Florent (30 min) or boat (Dominique Plaisance, 15 min).
A kilometre of white sand, astonishingly pure water, century-old pines and free-roaming cows. No road, no cars. To me, the most beautiful beach in Corsica.
Le Popeye shuttle, or a 45 min walk from Lotu.
Julien is a ceramicist, trained in Burgundy and then in Japan. His studio has been here since 1983 and his pieces dress some beautiful tables. Stop by the showroom, even just to look.
Campo d'Elge, 20253 Patrimonio
Christelle's shop, near the harbour. Lovely things for the home and for yourself, with a seaside feel. I always find a gift here.
20217 Saint-Florent
Bastien's place is a mix of antiques, souvenirs and gifts that's a joy to rummage through. You come in to browse and rarely leave empty-handed.
20217 Saint-Florent
More than a hundred and forty neoclassical mansions built in the 19th century by Cap Corse men who came home wealthy from the Americas. These palazzi look down over the villages, facing the sea. Look for them in Barrettali, Pino, Canari, Centuri, Luri, Rogliano.
capcorse-tourisme.corsica
The articles
What to know before you come
Eating out · 7 min read
Where to eat around Saint-Florent and Patrimonio
Twelve tables I actually go to, from a sandwich on the harbour to the one you keep for special occasions. With what to order, and when to book.
Wine · 5 min read
The Patrimonio wineries, and how to visit them
The oldest appellation in Corsica starts at the end of the lane. Four cellars, what to taste at each, and what time to turn up if you want the rare cuvées.
Beaches · 6 min read
The beaches around Saint-Florent, and how to get to Saleccia
The one five minutes away, the ones a quarter of an hour away, and the two with no road at all. With the three ways of reaching Lotu and Saleccia, and the one I recommend.
Food shopping · 4 min read
Food shopping in the Nebbio: the bread, the fish, the vegetables
The wood-fired bread you collect at 10.30am, the fish from the gulf landed that morning, the organic farm in Oletta. Where I buy what I eat, and what time you need to be there.
When to come · 5 min read
September and October in the Nebbio: the two finest months
The sea is still 22 degrees, the harvest is starting, the beaches empty out and the tables free up. What stays open, what closes, and why this is the best time to come.