Wine · 5 min read
The Patrimonio wineries, and how to visit them
The oldest appellation in Corsica starts at the end of the lane. Four cellars, what to taste at each, and what time to turn up if you want the rare cuvées.
Matthias Lavaux · Updated
Patrimonio is the oldest controlled appellation in Corsica, recognised in 1968. Nielluccio for the reds, vermentinu for the whites, muscat for the end of the meal. The vineyard sits in a limestone amphitheatre between the mountain and the gulf of Saint-Florent, and the house sits inside it.
The most sought-after cellar
Domaine Antoine Arena is the most legendary cellar of the appellation. The family makes natural wines sought after worldwide: Carco, Grotte di Sole, Hauts de Carco. Production is tiny and the cuvées go fast. It is by appointment, and you need to come early in the season.
The big estate, for a visit with children
Orenga de Gaffory farms sixty-five hectares of vines, with contemporary artworks standing among them. You taste glass in hand as you walk around. Ask for the Gouverneurs, the Scala Santa, and the Impassitu, their sweet wine. Tours and tastings in season.
The organic one, and the muscat
Domaine Gentile is a historic name of the appellation, organic for many years. Lovely Patrimonio wines and a celebrated muscat, in a simple and welcoming spirit. Tasting at the cellar, but call ahead out of season.
The apéritif, the real one
And for a glass with no ceremony, the Hôtel du Vignoble on the village square. Jean-Luc Santini is a winemaker like his father and grandfather. He pours his red and serves pizzas, across from the post office. That is where our evenings often end.
- Orenga de Gaffory · Lieu-dit Morta Majo, 20253 Patrimonio5 min
- Hôtel du Vignoble · Village square, 20253 Patrimonio5 min
- Domaine Antoine Arena · Morta Maio, 20253 Patrimonio5 min
- Domaine Gentile · 20253 Patrimonio10 min
Two things to know. Tasting happens in the morning or late afternoon, rarely between noon and 3pm. And if you plan to buy, leave room in the car: the cellars sell by the case, and a case of Patrimonio is not something you forget.
The questions I get asked about this
Can you visit the Patrimonio wineries without an appointment?
Orenga de Gaffory and Domaine Gentile take visitors in season without an appointment, in the morning or late afternoon. Domaine Antoine Arena asks for an appointment, since production is very small.
Which Patrimonio wine should I take home?
A vermentinu white for fish, a nielluccio red for lamb and charcuterie, and a Cap Corse muscat for the end of the meal. At Orenga de Gaffory, the Impassitu is the sweet wine to try.
How far are the wineries from Barbaggio?
Five minutes by car for Antoine Arena, Orenga de Gaffory and the Hôtel du Vignoble, ten minutes for Domaine Gentile. The house is in lower Barbaggio, level with Patrimonio.
Can you walk to the wineries from the house?
No, the road is narrow and has no pavement. You need the car, but the drive is no more than five minutes. Parking at the house is private and free.
Are there tastings in winter?
Yes, but only if you call ahead. In November and December the growers are in the cellar and are happy to see you, provided you give notice.
